![]() I was able to drill another hole in the bracket when mounting the Thundermax ECM on the now modified bracket, will replace it with a proper bracket when it comes in. You can order the plastic bracket for under $15, so it isn't a big deal. Apparently they don't want you to remove the stock ECM, but after removing the plastic bracket and cutting the screw out with a sawzall I was back on track. Sounds like a good idea until you find out the screws have a thread locker on them and trying to break the thread locker before the brass fitting breaks free inside the plactic is quite the trick. The ECM is mounted to a plastic bracket with two hex screws threaded into a brass fitting in the plastic bracket. The removal of the stock ECM went south right away, but I quickly found out there was a work around and it was a common issue. I am still learning all about the tuning features, but so far it feels like it is running great, so I don't think I need to adjust anything. I am very happy with this product, the next step is to hook up my notebook to the bike, put it in the saddlebag and record some data and see how it looks. There was also no decel poping at all either. I took it all the way up near red line several times. Not sure if that is because of the idle RPM or it is just running that much better. The pinging is gone, the power band is very smooth and for some reason, the bike doesn't vibrate nearly as much at idle. All I can say is the bike has never ran so well. The next morning I took the bike out for about 2 hours and rode it around town, making sure to do stop and go and highway cruising. I let it run until the engine heads were running around 280 degrees and then shut it down, the bike was now ready to ride. I let it run for about 30 seconds, turned it off and started again, this time I let it run with the monitor feature on in the SmartLink software. The bike suprised me and started immediately, something it wasn't doing with the Power Commander for whatever reason. ![]() They ask that you cycle the ignition 3 times before starting the bike up. Once I had it all installed, I followed the instructions and loaded a supplied map that was based on my engine size, air filter and exhaust options. I have heard that the softail models may be very close. The wires that were supplied had plenty of lenght on them as well. On the touring bike there are now issues with clearance when mounting these in. I did buy an o2 sensor socket, if you are going to do this and need to know which one to buy, get the longest one you can find, the new wide band sensors from Zippers is almost twice as long as the stock ones. The installation process went quite smooth. Sounds like a good idea until you find out the screws have a thread locker on them and trying to break the thread locker before the brass fitting breaks free inside the plastic is quite the trick. I was also able to find the system on ebay for around $650.00, this was a considerable difference in their MSRP price of $800+. The reason I selected this product was number 1, ease of use and I had a chance to check out their product and talk to the guys installing them in Daytona during Biketoberfest. I had some surging at certain RPMs, so after researching all the closed loop products out there, I decided to go with the Thundermax system from Zippers. ![]() ![]() I had some pinging and the power curve just seemed like it was smooth. I was using PowerCommander and had a custom map created for it, but it still wasn't perfect. I finally went ahead about bought the Thunermax EFI Auto Tune system for my 2007 Road Glide. ![]()
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